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5 days in the City of Lights

I'm just back from my trip to Paris and this is going to be the first post in a series about La cité de la lumièr (the city of lights). In this post, I'm gonna share what we visited during our 5 days stay and what we saw. This post will include prices, tips, and recommendations.

How to get around

 Paris is a big city with a lot of public transport, 3 airports and easy access to platforms like Uber or Bolt. It is also a great city to walk (something I always love to do when I travel), once every corner looks like a postcard and hides a special kind of magic.
  We flew to the Charles de Gaule Airport (CDG), the biggest one in Paris and a 45-minute drive away from the city center. We took a transfer from the airport to the city center with the company Bus Direct. It cost 18€ per person and it dropped us off by the Eiffel Tower. Then we had to get a Bolt to our apartment that cost us another 7€. To go to the airport when we were departing from Paris we ended up taking a Bolt that was 45€ (shared by the two of us it cost us pretty much the same as the transfer). I would recommend the Bold simply because it will pick you up and drop you off when and where you want it to, which is a big advantage when you have your bags with you.
We were lucky to stay in the center of Paris so we had 3 different metro lines near our house. We always got around by metro. Paris as one of the oldest undergrounds in the world and it's so characteristic of the city that it would be silly not to do it. We got 3-day passes that allowed us to take as many trips as we wanted in all the metros, trains and buses and it costs 26,25€. However, you can get 10 tickets (that are printed individually, so you can share them with everyone that is traveling with you) for 16,90€. We did this on our last day and I think it would probably be the best option if you are traveling alone or with another person, it becomes really cheap and I doubt you will take the tube more than 5 times in a day.

The Museums

 To recommend museums in the city that is a museum itself is a very hard thing to do. I visited two during my stay, probably the two most famous ones. The Louvre and The Pompidou.
Firstly I want to praise France for the amazing job their government does when it comes to promoting culture. Visits to museums (like the ones I've mentioned) and other monuments (like the Arc de Triomphe) are free of charge for all people that come from the European Union and are under 26. I recommend that you still book your tickets for the museums online because you will be able to skip the line.
The Louvre was an experience. We decided to only focus on the top floors. I felt very overwhelmed by art, I felt like I could go back every day that I stayed in Paris and I wouldn't have been able to see the whole thing. I didn't bother to go see Mona Lisa, there are hundreds (if not thousands) of other paintings that are less crowded and as beautiful (if not more). If you like paintings and sculptures I would recommend the Louvre one hundred percent. One room not to miss is the jewelry room, a room dedicated to a few of the most beautiful treasures from the French crown, a place that has crowns worn by Marie Antoinette or Empress Beatrice (Napoleon's wife). For someone who has studied art history for more than 7 years now to see paintings I had heard about in school for so long in real life touched me deeply.

If you only have time to visit one museum during your stay I would have to recommend The Pompidou. The outside of the museum is a modern masterpiece for itself. We only had the opportunity to visit the floor dedicated to Modern Art because we were short on time, but it was one of the best experiences of my life. I saw paintings by Kandinsky, Picasso, Otto Dix, Pollock, and many others. I saw the fountain by Duchamp. While I was there I was 17 again, inside my history book trying to learn everything about the vanguards in 10 days to take an exam on a subject I had never studied. I rediscovered the crazy minds of the art revolution like I was meeting them for the first time. I stood there looking to Yellow-Red-Blue by Kandinsky and I cried. To think that the geniuses behind those masterpieces were never fully aware of how brilliant they were, the fact that they changed art completely without even realizing, it touched my soul. Pompidou is the best museum I have ever visited and if I lived in Paris is a place I would spend hours in, absorbing everything that those paintings have to offer. Every feeling, every little piece of their story and every little piece of history.


 Following that, I have to talk about the neighborhood for the artists. Many, like Picasso, Van Gogh, Renoir, and many others called this place home. The beautiful Sacré Coeur graces Paris from it's highest hill. A visit to the cathedral is free of charge but you have to pay 7€ to visit the dome. After reading in many blogs about the amazing view we decided to go and I must say that it is absolutely amazing, in the past I had only gotten a skyline of Paris once when I climbed the Eiffel Tower but to see the view with the tower being part of it, it's something else.
Montmartre is the perfect place to simply walk around. The streets have life. There are multiple vintage shops, bakeries, restaurants, and the most various shops around the area. I recommend you visit Place de Tertre (also known as the artists' square), very close to the Sacré Coeur the visit is mandatory. This is the place where artists still gather, they sell portraits and caricatures (last time I was in Paris an artist actually did my caricature and I still have it at home). You are transported by a different time just by being there. It's almost like visiting a museum but it feels real and mundane, not academic.

Another place I have to recommend is The Consulat, a café known to be a hangout spot for Van Gogh or Picasso. A place that breaths art and history just by looking at it. Montmartre has many other interesting places to visit. You can easily spend a full day there (like we decided to do), I could easily write a travel guide only on Montmartre. Lose yourself in the streets, the shops and the cafés, visit the museums and you will understand the mistic that poets, painters and all types of artists describe when talking about it.

Talking about the whole Vive la vie de bohème that you feel around this area I had to talk about the Moulin Rouge. Cabarets are something very characteristic of this neighborhood and the Moulin Rouge is probably the most famous one (thanks to the masterpiece of a movie created by Baz Luhrmann). You will be able to find the Moulin Rouge at the bottom of the hill, an area with a lot of sex shops and gay clubs (a bit like the red light district of Paris). The cabaret is monumental and it will for sure capture your attention, with bright red lights and a rid mill on top of the building. It's obviously a tourist attraction where you can have dinner and watch a cancan performance (I think they cost around 150€ per person or something crazy like that).

From Notre Dame to Shakespear and Co

 I vividly remember the day Notre Dame fire happened. I was glued to my phone trying to get updates, I cried. I'm not sure why maybe because I love art and history and Notre Dame as been there to see so many of the historical events that happened in Paris as the French Revolution, The Plague, 2 world wars (amongst others), maybe because I have a connection that I can't explain with that city. Nowadays the cathedral can't be visited because there are repairs and construction going on in the building. But you can still look at the Notre Dame in its full glory from the outside. The building is monumental, to think that it was built almost 900 years ago is crazy, to say the least. I had never been so close to Notre Dames's front door like I did this time and I felt so small.
Surprisingly I didn't find the restaurants and bars near the cathedral particularly expensive (we had 2 glasses of wine in a café by the river for 10€ which is pretty reasonable in my opinion).

Another mandatory stop in the area is the bookshop Shakespeare & Co. a bookstore that for years was a meeting point for writers like  Ernest Hemingway is an authentic masterpiece. The place is decorated with such care and attention that you feel at home. You are encouraged to grab books, to feel them, to read. They sell second-hand books and new ones. The bookstore is gigantic with different rooms designated to different topics. Next to the bookshop, you can visit the Shakespeare and Co. café which is basically a cool trendy place to have a coffee with a view to the Seine and to read the books you just bought. I would really recommend this place, being one of those shops that makes you feel the magic poets described Paris to have for centuries.

LaFayette Galleries and the Ópera

If you are in the mood for shopping I have to recommend that you stop by Galeries Lafayette. An enormous shopping center that is home for the most luxury brands like Dior, Louis Vuitton, Channel, Saint Laurent, and many others. It has a beauty corner that would make any makeup lover hold its breath. I was in heaven (and surprisingly managed to not buy anything). The ceiling of the building has a gigantic dome made of stained glass. The whole place feels like a gigantic Christmas Market, mixed with a shopping center from the 1900s. A place so luxurious that it feels like you have to be really rich to shop there, a place so beautiful that it turned into a bit of a touristic attraction. The dome can be visited and you can take pictures there, it's free but there is normally a line. We had to wait for around 15 minutes, but the panoramic view of the mall is worth it.

On the outside, nearby Galeries Lafayette, you will find Palais Garnier, the home of Paris Ópera. A monumental neo-baroque palace in the center of a square, it rises from the busy city. The building makes you feel small (pretty much like everything else in Paris), due to its enormous size, but due to its beauty as well, the details, the huge stairs. I'm not sure if visits are available to the palace, but if they are, whenever I go back to Paris I would love to get a tour of the inside of this place.

Champs-Elysées, Alexandre III bridge and everything in between

 Joe Dassin wrote Il y a tout ce que vous voulez aux Champs-Elysées (there is everything you can wish for in the Champs-Elysées). An avenue known for its luxury stores topped by the Arc de Triomphe and with Place de la Concorde in the bottom, near the river is an iconic street in Paris. I think it's worth the stroll down the street. If you are into makeup the Sephora is a mandatory stop. The store is huge and I read somewhere it attracts more than 6 million visitors per year. I had never been in such makeup heaven (again I didn't buy anything, but totally worth the visit).

Going down the Champs-Elysées you will be able to see the Grand Palais and the Petit Palais beautiful buildings built for the Universal Exhibition of 1900.
You will then arrive at Place de la Concorde, the biggest and most famous square in France. The square has beautiful fountains and beautiful buildings all around it, a great spot to snap a few pictures. The place has huge historical importance as well, this is the square where King Louis the XVI and Queen Marie Antoinette were guillotined during the French Revolution.
Little details like this really reflect on the historic richness France has to offer, everything looks magnificent, beautiful, everything looks like the inside of a painting, everything has a lot of history.

Near the river, you can visit the  Alexandre the III bridge, probably the most famous bridge that crosses the Seine. The bridge connects the Champs Elysées with the Invalides it is adorned with multiple sculptures, a lot of gold details and beautiful Art Nouveau styled lamps. Those lamps were a few of the first lights to illuminate what would become the city of lights with electric energy during the Universal Exhibition of 1900, a truly revolutionary thing at the time.

A night cruise in the Seine

 I couldn't finish this post without sharing another recommendation. Something we did during our stay that we truly loved. As you can imagine the city is huge and it has loads to see, in 5 days you won't be able to see everything the city as to offer (I honestly doubt that 5 years would be enough). We decided to go on a cruise at night. We booked our tickets here and it was 13€ for a boat tour with an audio guide. I love to do stuff like this when I am traveling, it allows you to see a lot of the city and to learn more about its history. A lot of the main buildings in Paris are by the river and the city is strongly illuminated at night making it a totally magical experience. I would really recommend this activity if you are searching for a general vision of the lights in various buildings. The boats depart from near the Eiffel Tower and you will be able to see the tower sparkle from close (a light show that happens every hour and that lasts for 5 minutes).
The cruise goes from the Eiffel Tower to Notre Dame and it lasts one hour. I wasn't expecting it to be one of my favorite things I've ever done in Paris, but it truly was.

Location: Paris, France
Photos: Ana Teresa Pessoa & João Machado

My Skincare Routine (part II)

On my last post, I shared all the products that I've been using on my everyday morning and night routine to take care of my skin, today I am gonna share three products that I don't wear on a daily bases but that have become an essential part of my skincare routine.  

Bioderma Sébium Night Peel Smoothing Concentrate: Something I have always delt with is acne scarring. That is mainly because I can't keep my hands off my face. It's a terrible discussing habit, yet, I do it (pretty much the same with biting my nails, I know it's bad but I can't stop). 
When I had a skin diagnosis at Wells (a Portuguese drugstore, where they offer free services such as skin diagnosis and express makeup or facials) the lady recommended this product to help my acne scars to fade.  
This product is meant to wear every night for four weeks and to have a monthly break between cycles of use. 
The product helps to smooth the bumps and marks on my skin. It is quite an aggressive product to the skin so you need to be careful to wash your skin with a cleanser every morning after usage, to wear an SPF every day and to moisturize well, once this is quite a drying product. 
However, I would really recommend it. My skin is looking better than ever since doing one cycle of the treatment (I am aiming to do no more than 5 cycles per year with 2 months of rest between them). If you have a lot of acne scars and marks on your skin this is for sure a product to consider buying especially since it's quite an affordable choice from the french pharmacy brand. 

Uriage Hyséac SOS Paste: This product is a life savior. I got it at the same time I got all my other french pharmacy bits. This is a paste meant to help dry out blemishes when they appear on the skin. It works really well in active acne and it drys up my blemishes overnight, which helps a lot in combating my bad habit of squeezing my zits. 
This is probably the most affordable product out of my whole routine which is good because a little tub lasts a long time. 
I normally apply it on my skin after moisturizing at night. I never put my finger inside the product, instead, I use a spatula to take a little bit of it out and then I apply it on top of my zit. When I wake up the next day, is like it never existed. 

Kiehls's Rare Earth Deep Pore Cleansing Masque: Face masks became a huge thing in skincare a few years ago, due to the Korean skincare routine boom. I have been trying not to use a lot of sheet masks because they are terrible for the environment regardless of how good they feel.
This Kiehl's mask is one of my favorites. It helps me balance the oily production of my skin and consequently the number of breakouts that I have. I would say this mask will work better in combination to oily skin. 
The brand says it can be used once or twice a week but honestly I only use it once. I let it dry for 10 minutes before cleaning it off with tepid water. 
I truly believe doing a face mask once a week can change your routine completely and I would really recommend you giving it a try if you don't have a step like this one on your routine.

And this is it, guys! The full list of all my lotions and potions I've been using on my skin for the past few months. I would recommend you give a read to part one of this in which I shared my everyday skincare regime!

My Skincare Routine (part 1)

February is here and with it here I am to commit to a blogging schedule. We will have new posts every Monday and Friday, and a lot more content coming your way. January was a hard month, a lot of stuff happening and I needed to take a step back in order to reorganize and reset myself. Today I kick start the month with an updated skincare routine. I will share all the products I've been wearing since November and give you all my unfiltered thoughts and opinions on them. 

Skincare has always been a sensitive topic for me. For years I failed to give it the right importance, focusing all my energy (and money) on makeup. However, as I've grown older, and hopefully wiser I've come to realize that skincare is the base of any good makeup, that the canvas can actually make the painting.
Thankfully I never had awful habits like sleeping with my makeup on or not moisturizing because I had blemishes, but I don't drink enough water and for years I've struggled with understanding my skin (as you can see on the post I did on my experience with dermatologists). Nowadays I know I have combination skin and I seek to use French Pharmacy products in my routine, they normally have a good quality/price relationship and work better than most drugstore products I've tested (this doesn't mean I have abolished drugstore products in any way, there are great affordable options out there and I don't mind using them and testing, but so far this routine has worked perfectly for me.). 

The steps I do are similar morning and night. If I am wearing makeup I always remove it with either an oil or a micellar water (my favorite one being the Garnier one). 
After that, I use my Clarisonic Mia Fit and the The Body Shop Tea Tree Clearing Facial Wash, I've found these products to work perfectly together! My skin feels cleansed and oil-free after using this cleanser and the Clarisonic is an amazing tool that has changed my routine completely. I tend to use it more at night time, once I'm normally rushing in the morning and I feel that doing the process morning and night might be a bit too aggressive on my skin. I honestly think a skincare cleansing brush is a great tool to add to your routine, especially if you wear makeup. It removes all the dirt and every bit of pollution from my skin and I feel like my skin is cleaner than ever before.
I also have been making an effort to use either cold (in the morning) or tepid water on my skin. I think that I made the mistake to use super hot water on it and it was damaging my skin barrier. 

After cleansing, I use a tonner. The Nuxe Aquabella has been my choice. I used to apply my toner with a cotton pad but, as of lately, in my efforts to reduce the waste I produce I have been applying this product with my hands. This way I have actually ensured that the product lasts way longer once it's applied directly to the skin. A tonner is important in your skincare routine because it will help balance your skin pH level, sometimes modified by tap water. It also has an important role when it comes to the appearance of your pores and it also helps to even out your skin tone. 

Moisturization is an essential part of any skincare routine (yes, oily skin people, of yours too). Honestly, combination skin can be a total bitch, your skin will be oily AF in some parts and dry in others if you use a gel type of moisturizer you will have dry patches if you apply a thick cream you will look oily. It's hard to find a moisturizer that gets it right. I can proudly say that I finally have found something that truly works for me (and that I'm in the second bottle of already). I am talking about the Jowaé Moisturizing Light Cream, a fluid, and very refreshing product that moisturizes my skin and leaves it feeling like a baby. This is probably the product that I've felt made the biggest difference. I don't think I will need to search more for moisturizers, I use it morning and night and it truly works wonders. I also find it to be very shooting to my skin after wearing makeup the whole day, removing it, exfoliating, etc. this product always helps my skin feel fresh and, overall, good

The last couple of products that are part of my everyday regime are two products that target special areas of our faces, areas where the skin is a little bit different than the rest of our faces, the eyes and the lips. 

The skin under our eyes is extremely thin and sensitive, it makes sense that we should wear a different product to hydrate that part of our faces. I have tried many eye creams, and even though I don't find them to be essential in my routine (ask me again in 5 years when I start having wrinkles and maybe I will have changed my mind), I feel way better when I used them. I normally use my face roller under my eyes before applying the eye cream and I find the combination of both products to work perfectly in the morning when I'm trying to look alive and awake. 
The eye cream I've been wearing is the Garnier Organic Anti-age Eye cream (because it's never too soon to prevent aging marks under our eyes). I love this product, it has a nice soft smell, it's hydrating and I feel it does the job of keeping my under eye area hydrated. This is also a step I value because I normally go heavy when it comes to concealer and crazy eyeshadow under my eyes, feeling that I'm taking the time and extra effort to do a step focusing on preserving that area as become quite important to me.

When it comes to the lips, I swear that the Alex Steinherr x Primark Sleep Spa Overnight Lip Mask is the best lip balm I have ever tried. 
If you have been reading the blog for a while you know I love the Primark collaborative range with the beauty editor but this lip mask is where it's at for me.
As someone who as always dealt with super dry patchy lips, I am proud to say that I have tested most of the options available in the market when it comes to dry lips and this one takes home the prize for me. I apply a very generous amount before bed every night, I keep it in my purse during the day and I sometimes even use it instead of lipstick due to its natural pink colour. 
I am so thankful for having found this product, my lips are so dry (mostly because of the water intake problem I've mentioned in the first sentence) that I found myself bleeding from the cracks and sometimes it was painful to even smile. A good lip balm has always been essential to me and to find one so affordable that works this well is truly groundbreaking for me. So I have to thank the makers for this product and beg them to never discontinue it!

I hope you enjoyed this post, I was originally supposed to write in all the extra products I wore but after doing a little Instagram poll you said you would rather have the post dived in two.
Next Monday part 2 will be up!

My New Year Resolutions

The good old cliché new year, new me hit me strong this year. 2019 wasn't a great year for me, I had a lot of resolutions that I didn't achieve, a lot of shit and a lot of feeling sorry for myself happened. When December came around I can say that I was DONE! Done with feeling sorry for myself, not trying hard enough and with expecting things to fall from the sky into my lap. 
I can honestly say that my mindset changed, I started to implement all the resolutions I wanted to make happen in 2020. I wanted the new year to be a fresh start but I didn't want to start to scratch. 
Today I am sharing with you my new year resolutions and what I've already done in order to implement them. 

Stop bitting my nails: I think this has been the first resolution on my list for the past 8 years, I never managed to achieve it. To be honest I never did anything to achieve it. I can proudly say that I haven't bitten my nails for 2 months now. Back at the end of November, I got my first gel manicure, since then I haven't bitten my nails. 
The fact that I am paying on a monthly bases to get my nails done, I have my hands looking beautiful at all times has boosted my self-confidence more than any hair cut, makeup or clothes I've ever bought. I hope that for the duration of the year I can keep this going, but so far it has proved itself to be easier than what I thought. It's truly amazing what we can achieve once we change our mindset and allow ourselves to make things happen. 

Workout 3 times a week: I stopped working out in May in 2020 I am yet to hit the gym (hopefully after I write this post I will be able to do so). I want to go back into working out because I miss the way it made me feel, and I am not even talking about the physical aspect of it. A gym is a place in which you are allowed to get rid of your frustrations and worries and turn them into sweat. This is going to be one of the hardest resolutions to keep up with but I will get there, sooner or later!

Go to the cinema 24 times: I love the cinema, it was my first love when I was still a child. Going to the cinema twice a month it's reasonable for me and something I've already done in 2019. I want to keep this routine up in 2020. 

Read 12 books: In a world dominated by technology, screens and being connected all the time, the need to find activities that allow us to disconnect. I plan on getting back into reading this year. One book per month is my goal, but I honestly think I am committed enough to read a lot more than that. I am currently reading Angels & Demons by Dan Brown.

Learn how to make 5 salad dressings: I want to eat a lot healthier this year, for that, I decided that if I learn how to make 5 salad dressings I will be able to eat salads more often and without the sugar bombs that are store-bought dressings. This is a simple one that will make the biggest difference in the long run.

Learn how to work Pinterest: Everyone and their mothers have told me that Pinterest is where it's at when it comes to generating blogging traffic. I want to take my blog more seriously and investing my money in a Pinterest course seams the logical next step in my business as a blogger.

Travel / Visit 10 new places: To travel more is another recurring thing in my resolutions page. I am a world creature, I feel at home anywhere and nowhere at all. I want to travel more in 2020, regardless of how far, or where I want to be able to visit new places in and outside of Portugal. For that reason, I booked a trip to Huelva, Spain for new years eve. I wanted to start the new decade in a new place, somewhere I hadn't visit before. It was an amazing way to start fresh in a fresh place. I honestly hope I can keep up with all the travelling I plan on doing on top of everything else, and hopefully develop more of a travel component to the blog. 

Graduate University: The big thing to achieve this year. I will graduate from my uni degree in 2020. It's crazy to think that all that I've done for the past 16 years of school will come to an end this year. I am so proud of myself, terrified and excited at the same time because after May I will officially be a grown-up, with grown-up responsibilities. However, I am sure things will go my way because I am 100% willing to make them go my way. 

Photography: Sofia Filipe
Location: Terreiro do Paço, Lisbon  

Our Generation Lost the Ability of Being in the Moment


Ironic, I am writing this blog post, sharing it online, when it's the online presence that I am aiming against here. I've been reflecting over the fact that we (as a generation) lost the ability to be present in the moment. We physically are there, but mentally we are lost in our own little worlds.
Think about it, when we pick a restaurant to go out and eat, we decided based on how instagramable it is, when we book a vacation we decide the destination having in mind the pictures we are going to take (or why do you think places like Bali became so trendy in the second half of this decade?!). We do things so that we can show other people that we are doing them, making life a mechanical show of. From the clothes to the decoration, passing by the cafés and places we visit, everything has likes, views and numbers at the top of the priorities list. We want a scoop into other people lives and they want to present us with the absolutely most dreamy and amazing version of themselves, regardless of how fake that might be.

The problem is, we get so caught up into pretending to be the best version of ourselves that we forget to actually be it.
We neglect other people because we have to post a picture when the stats tell us that the picture will do best. We spend so much time taking pictures of our food that it often goes cold, taking pictures of nature that we only look at it through a screen, ignoring the beauty our own eyes can capture. We, as a generation, lost the ability to simply look, to enjoy to reflect upon what we are watching. If something is pretty we snap a picture of it, this way we can always remember a moment we didn't truly experience. 

I spend too much time on my phone, actually is where this blog post is being written (not something I usually do but the idea was so stuck in my head I couldn't help it). I spend more time looking at my phone than cooking, working out, reading, sometimes even sleeping. When you put things into that perspective is terrifying. A device has my full attention at most times. A device, either I wanted it to or not, controls my life. I'm writing this post because I truly believe this is a problem many people my age feel, our generation is the first to deal with this type of pressure because we are the first generation to grow up with the internet, technology, easy access to everything and social media platforms.

This post is being seen by me as a turning point, we are at the end of a decade, 2020 is soon upon us, and for that reason I wanted, more than ever to reflect where I want my life to go, how I want to enjoy the world and live my life. I want to make a conscious effort to enjoy the world more, to travel more, to visit new places, to get to know new cultures and to see the world, instead of sharing it. 
Don't miss understand me, please. I love to share my life, that is what I do here on the blog and on my social media platforms, but I want to stop living life with the purpose of sharing it, I want to start doing it with the purpose of living it, and if for some reason I think that it's worth sharing I consequently will, but that will stop being the goal.

At the same time, I have set limits to the time I spend on the Youtube app on my phone and on Instagram, is that I will only, from now on, allow myself the time the app allows if I want some sort of extra entertainment I will pick up a book, a movie, a tv show and try to focus on that. This is very important to me because I've been feeling like my attention span is getting extremely short, and it's scary, I often find myself talking to someone, watching a TV show and scrolling at the same time, not paying full attention to either of the tasks, bombarding my brain with information and yet failing to concentrate on anything.  This process of change I am meaning to put to action right away will (hopefully) help me concentrate more, spend more time doing things I enjoy and be surrounded by the people I love so that consequently, I am able to create more honest content and share stuff that actually brought me happiness while creating instead of living in the bubble of self-comparison and trying to look better than others. 
At the end of the day, I am hoping that by spending less time on my phone and looking at screens I am able to share better content on my online platforms and live a happier life.

Location: Lisbon, Portugal
Photography: Catarina Rosa